India - from Mumbai to New Delhi

Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur (extract)

If, like us, it has been a while since you stayed at the Lake Palace, then you will have to remember to close your mouth, for you will not believe what Taj have done to this white wedding cake of a palace on Lake Pichola.

1948 Chrysler from Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur

A 1948 Chrysler, with airconditioning, sped us from the airport to the lake; but wait a minute, we seem to be going the wrong way, I thought. In fact, over the past 12 months, Taj have created a brand new arrival area on the shore of the lake, so when we entered the walled palace complex, we turned left and cruised gently along the landscaped shore; a procession of mahouts on elephants and colourfully dressed dancers preceding us.

Dancers at the Lake Palace arrival Pavilion

Was there a wedding? No, this was the VIP welcome for a handful of guests, including ourselves, and oh, what a spectacle.

Taj Lake Palace boat arrival area

Taj have built a stunning arrival area; all wrought iron cupolas, arches and shaded lounging areas; a far cry from the old jetty that used to serve the hotel. Even the steps down to the boat that transports you across the lake are handsomely crafted.

The immaculate new pool at Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur, floats in the midst of Lake Pichola, the views unique

I wondered about this sudden spurt of investment after all these years, then learned that Taj leased the property five years ago and since then have been spending their own money on transforming the place into one of the world’s top hideaways. Could they do it? I did not think so, until, that is, we checked in.

As the rose petals settled onto the pure white marble and I raised my head from receiving a fragrant garland, I saw that they had finessed the lobby; the stunning flower arrangements designed in Paris. Yes really. The hotel’s boutiques, which stock the best Indian jewellery, prints and carpets I have seen, are now carefully concealed on the right. The lily pond, which was featured in the 1983 James Bond film, Octopussy, is manicured to perfection; the internal courtyard gardens brimming with lush foliage and subtle new fountains. . . . . .

Amanbagh, Alwar (extract)

Swagatam, Sahib David and Sahiba Lyn; our home is yours.

Cradled between the Aravali hills, we enter the ‘peaceful garden’ that is Amanbagh in Alwar’s rural valley of Ajabgarh and we understand why so many guests cry when they leave here, for you are indeed part of this special family, albeit for a few days. Leaving is a wrench.

Pure voices sing a welcome like no other ever experienced; the girls clad in signature orange, their voices not merely musical, but spiritual, so that the hairs on the back of my neck prickle and my eyes fill with tears. They tie red and yellow string around your left wrist and smile a very genuine welcome. I have never been here before, yet I feel as though I have come home.

We have been driven from Jaipur in a four-wheel drive; our 90 minute journey a magical mystery tour of villages (where they carve the local white marble into gods and goddesses), and the intriguing medieval site of Bhangarh; an entire abandoned city that many say is haunted. The average tourist to India never sees such things, yet around Amanbagh, the land is littered with treasures and you will probably be the only visitor. . . . .

India
(extract from July issue 2008 VOL 18 No7 - Ten hotels reviewed in this issue)